Winter Project

Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 7:03 pm

F1's are superb..... Think reading the above that Mike only got the Toyo's coz the F1's were not available in the size he wanted.

Correct me if I am wrong Mike.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Owen's correct I only got Toyos because the F1 is discontinued in the requried size.

It will be a while before I can give an appraisal of the Toyos. One thing is the wear index is quite low at 280 which might mean more grip but ultimately means a shorter life.

In my opinion, if you can get the F1 in the size you need, get them.

Fitted the wheels on the other side tonight. Bloody nightmare on the front passenger side - it was welded to the hub. Used a screwdriver and hammer to seperate them and then kicked it off. While lying on the ground kicking it I noticed a split cv boot , hohum.

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:08 am

change to mikeS20v coming maybe?

lb

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:02 am

Cool, will go for F1's

Cheers guys

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Can't see the user name changing. I've got someone anxious to buy the Coupe quattro if I decide to sell.

Checking the brake fluid switch is fun. It's upside down and there's no room to get probes on it. I just disconnected the wiring and jumpered the wiring together to simulate the switch working -didn't make any difference to the autocheck warning so took it that the switch is functioning.

Topped up the PAS fluid which has cleared the autocheck error on ignition. Will need to run the car to check if the bomb is knacked. Haven't done this as the smoke is bad and the car was in the garage.

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:10 pm

May be worth changing the G002000 if you have some.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

This warning is back today and I don't know why. Possibly a brake fluid switch issue as the warning disappeared for a while when it was disconnected. I'll investigate it after Christmas when I replace the brakes.

Swapped the old drilled swiss cheese airbox and fitted a replacement with no holes. Also treated the car to a new air filter as the old one was in poor shape. It was really dirty but there was no oil on it - possibly due to the holes.

Rear seat is back in and the centre console is now attached to the car. Got a new liner for the console next to the handbrake - not fitted it yet as unsure what to fit it with. Glue or double sided tape ?

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

A successful day today with big thanks going to Owen who spent most of the day upside down checking the wiring for the electric windows.

This little bugger was preventing the front electric windows working. I suspect it's from an old factory alarm. Once we plugged this in and hooked up the switches, both windows sprang to life.

Rear discs and pads were replaced in the morning. No dramas at all - even the calipers retracted easily. I retapped the threads for the carrier bolts which made them much easier to fit the new bolts.

Front passenger side was fun - the cv boot was split. Normally on that side, I can undo the driveshaft from the hub without dropping the ball joint; not this time. Managed to damage the ball joint in the process although I've got a spare.

Bad light stopped play so I left the old ball joint in place and fitted the new disc and pads. The car was returned to the garage overnight.

Tomorrow should see the ball joint replaced and the drivers front disc / pads replaced. I can then bleed the brakes on all 4 corners.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

The ball joint was replaced and the disc / pads on the drivers side front. This was done on Wed before new Year.

Finally got round to bleeding the brakes today. The rears went ok with no problems. When bleeding the fronts, the flexi hoses developed bulges at both ends.

these will need to be ordered tomorrow. Should get them replaced by Friday.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Not had the best of days. Started to replace the brake hose on the drivers side. As usual, the brake pipe unions were siezed solid. This meant having to cut the pipe and hack off the remains.

No problem - cut the pipe around the strut and make a new one. I've got a flaring tool so this went ok. I also had to cut the pipe in the wheel arch. I don't like doing this as this pipe goes into the engine bay and across to the ABS modulator. It also means having to reflare the pipe on the car and re bending the pipe slightly to make it fit. It took a while but I got it eventually and even managed to persuade the pipe back into the retaining clip and it still reaches down to the bracket where it joins the hose.

Unfortunately one of the retaining springs which sits between the pipe and the hose broke while hacking the pipe off. I don't have any spares of these which means the car will need to sit idle until I get a replacement.

And this is only the first side. I can't wait to tackle the passenger side which is usually worse.

Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2006 9:27 pm

Still available for Saturday if required...just give me a shout.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Needn't have worried. This second hose on the nearside was a doddle. Not sure if it had been done before but the pipe unions came undone easily.

Fitted the new hose and re-bled the system in less than 90 minutes. the longest part was waiting for the old fluid to drain out.

Car is all back together ready for the interior refit tomorrow.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Got the car near enough finished today with help from Owen. There are a couple of minor niggles to sort before gettting an MOT. These are not difficult so the car should hopefully be ready by next weekend for an MOT test. I'd rather wait until after the 15th anyway.

The brake fluid reservoir needs replaced as the switch inside is giving a low level warning all the time.

Front seat glide pieces need fitted to mae adjusting the seats easier.
The underseal needs rubbed down and re-applied in a few places.
The plastic strips on the base of the doors need replaced as they are falling off.

Things done today were
Front door cards fitted, all electric windows connected and door handles/trim fitted
New carpet liner and rear ashtray fitted to centre console
OBC fixed
Replacement driver and passenger seats fitted - this was a pita as we had to transfer the levers from the old seat for forward/reverse movment
Headlining and seatbelts cleaned
Rear seat backrest cleaned
All glass cleaned
Windscreen wipers replaced
Offside headlamp non operation fixed
Number plates fitted
Parcel shelf fitted below steering wheel

Things not done which can wait are the bonnet paintwork and the leaking sump which is very minor.

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:05 am

mike , did you happene to notice where the electric window harness come from?
I have a front windows only and a 4 window which I would like to swop over , but have a nasty feeling that this would mean changing the whole harness rather than just plugging in somewhere under the dash!!

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:24 pm

To get the windows working I only traced a few wires, mainly the one giving juice to the motor - On Mike's car this lead us to part of what we believe to be the alarm circuit (presumably for auto closure).

The loom itself goes in to the area where the auxhilary relay panel sits under the dash - didn't get any further than that as got them, working...thank god!

UltraUser Joined: Mar 18, 2005 Posts: 1570 Location: Gwent

Lebesset,
I stripped a 90 20v, it had front electric windows only and no sunroof, my coupe obviously only has 2 windows, and has a sunroof, Mike's 20v sport, I think has 4 ew and sr. All have the same part no. Relay unit under the dash. I think you will be able to swap in the rear windows, you will need to patch in the the rear window loom, which i suspect will just clip on like the other electrical options would?

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Scotty is correct, mine has 4 electric windows and a sunroof. To fit electric rears, I doubt the wiring will be there already but it's worth strpping the rear doors to check.

best advice is to find an early 90 2.2e as they all had 4 electric windows and strip out what you need.

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:58 am

thanks guys , if you note I already have the vehicle to swop , but there is no wiring to the back windows and I wondered how far forward I would have to go to pick up the requisite loom ; from what you say , relay under the dash is the answer ; presume the whole system from the relay backwill have to be changed as will be one piece ; in any case , the drivers door switch is different

lb

Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 10:11 am

when we stripped my first 90, the rear electric windows etc. were used for a series 3 80 sport. This didn't have them, and the whole loom had to be spliced- it wasn't a plug in type arrangement. I know no other details either, as I didn't do the job.....

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Today was spent polishing the exterior to try and restore some life back in to the paintwork. The worst is the bonnet but there are other areas which are also faded, notably the bootlid, roof and rear spoiler as well as the nearside wing.

I've been using mostly Meguiars products although I was recommended a rubbing compound Farecla G10 for removing the oxidation. This seems to have done the trick as the bonnet is not nearly as bad although close up there are still some blemishes and faded areas.

It's nowhere near complete as the only parts done are the drivers side panels plus the bonnet and bootlid / spoiler.

I've uploaded some pictures to the gallery.
http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?set_albumName=album308&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=6

The MOT is arranged for Wednesday although there are a couple of jobs to do first. The seat glide pieces and the brake reservoir.

Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 12:00 pm

You sure that's the same car ? Laughing

That stuff looks good Mike...Where did you get it ?

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

The usual source - Ebay.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Fitted the replacement reservoir this morning. Autocheck warning has now gone so I can only assume it's a faulty switch inside the reservoir. Seat gliders are in as well - looks like they were never fitted previously.

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:39 pm

So is that it...all ready for MOT ?

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Not quite. Took it for a pre-MOT check today. Drove quite well on 3 year old fuel.

Top strut mounts, wishbone bushes front and rear are worn.An exhaust clamp fell off during inspection and the rubber hangers are not strong enough - the exhaust moves around and bangs on the floor at the back.

Should be ready for next week some time. Parts are on order.

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Front wishbone bushes and top mounts done. No major problems although the wishbones are not the same as those on my S2. There is normally a small lug on the edge of the forged arms which allows a pipe to be placed over the bush when pressing them out. Not on these arms which meant the pipe couldn't be used. I bent two bolts by about 30 degrees before I worked out what was wrong. I had to resort to drifting them out with a hammer.

Top mounts were straightforward. I've done them on several cars now. Possibly a faulty shock on the drivers side as it was not returning to the top when pushed down. This can wait as it will not fail an MOT.

I'm now part way through doing the rear wishbone bushes. First side is dismantled.

Someone has been there before me and I'm not impressed. The old nuts and bolts were obviously reused. I was using the 1 metre 3/4" drive bar to remove the old bolts. Eventually one of them broke. The other bolt took about 30 mins to remove it was that siezed.

Pressed the bushes out ok and found a hacksaw groove all the way up the inside of the wishbone. The wishbone is basically scrap. Fortunately, I've got some spares lying around so I've pressed the new bushes in to a spare.

I'll probably need to get replacement ball joints as the boot was damaged, although I've found a part number for a replacement boot if I can't get them tomorrow.

431 407 377 A for the ball joint boot - for some reason this is only listed for the type 44 cars.

Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:20 pm

That's handy that you can get those boots. Pity only for the type 44 cars

Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:51 pm

Some halfwit did that to the front two wishbones on my 2.3E coupe, the hacksaw groove was half the way through the wishbone, total scrap and had to get two new ones. Garage that did it has now gone bust, serves them right Mad

Jas

Site Moderator Joined: Jan 31, 2003 Posts: 9144

Got the other side done and the wishbone was the same - a hacksaw groove all the way down. Just as well I had my spares.

Just the door strips to do and try and sort the exhaust.

MOT this week

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 11:57 am

I replaced the door strips on my 90 last week for the (relatively) newer ones on my donor car. Just needs a clean now!