Help with power steering pump

Newbie Joined: Jan 07, 2014 Posts: 14

Hi guys i got a leaking power steering pump on my 2.8 V6 cabby and thought after completing a heater matrix swap this week i'd try and replace seals on the pump, i just need a bit of help in how to remove the pump from the top of the engine. If any one knows of any threads or can tell me the right procedure to remove it i'd greatly appreciate it, cheers Mark

Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 3:01 pm

I see this is an oldish thread but if it helps anyone I replaced the pump twice on my own cab last year. Apologies for lack of specific details such as bolt sizes or even pics, unfortunately I don't have any but I will definitely take some if/when I ever do the job again!

1st step: Remove both plastic engine covers (top and front) and undo the allen bolts that hold the coil pack onto the top of the PAS pump mounting bracket. Move the pack aside to sit on top of the engine. (The ignition leads can be removed or not so the pack can be removed altogether - no matter really, whatever is easiest for you).

2nd step: Undo allen bolts securing the PAS pump pulley and then remove the auxilliary belt by releasing the tensioner (see attached pic).
The pump pulley can then come off, giving much easier access to the bolts you would be removing in step 4. The pulley can actually be left on, especially if the new pump comes with one. And unless you have short angled allen keys then you will save a lot of grief by removing this pulley. Believe me, I learned this the hard way!

3rd step: Remove the banjo bolts that are attached to the PAS pump. Be aware, you WILL lose some fluid so have some old rags ready! (You can bend the hydraulic pipes slightly upwards to avoid losing too much fluid).

4th step: Remove the horizontal allen bolts that secure the pump to the engine block and the pump should come off easily. If you have the pump pulley removed as described in step 2, this will be easy.
If you haven't done this - be prepared, and make sure there are no sensitive ears around as you turn the air blue getting them out!

5th step: Fit new pump and do the reverse of the previous 4 steps. New O ring seals are recommended here when reattaching the pipes to the pump, but not essential unless they are damaged/cracked in any way. The O rings are the red rubber seals that sit either side of where the banjo bolts fit through the hydraulic pipes, where they mate to the pump.

6th step: Flush out old hydraulic fluid and replace with the new expensive green goo.

To be honest I missed out step 6 as the hydraulic system can self bleed any air in the system, but keep a close eye for any leaks.
If not flushing, run the car for a few miles and then top up the fluid reservoir tank as necessary.

Oh, If anyone thinks they can get away with ordinary ATF (red fluid) in the hydraulic system, GET IT FLUSHED ASAP - IT WILL EVENTUALLY RUIN BOTH YOUR POWER STEERING RACK AND PUMP.
Replace with CHF 11S - Central Hydraulic Fluid. This is nicknamed "green gold" due its' colour - and price.